![]() ![]() Jerry: I could tell you what you need to do here, but that would not mean anything to you. We replaced all of the windows and doors with units built in our shop. Each bedroom had two exterior doors, and some rooms were not accessable from inside the house, you had to go out on the deck to get to the bedrooms. It had 87 windows and twenty one exterior doors. I built new box beams in the affected sections and all is well. It was standing proud from 1962 until about 5 years ago when the current owner let the roof leak into the box beams. I restored a Carl Strauss designed house built for the Dracket family that had great high ceilings, carried on plywood box beams spanning 26' themselves. ![]() In fact even the lowest rated TJIs could be used for this job as there is only a 10' horizontal span.Īlso, not a fan of plywood beams, usually they sag of their own weight, and you need to brace them up. That really would more than get the job done. Strap the TJIs together according to manufacturers specs and apply 5/8" sheathing. Attach to beam with simpson variable slope joist hangers and simson strap tied over the peak. In any case, if I were building this addition, I would do the following, and it wouldn't require engineered docs here because it is in accordance with the lumber manufacturers specs. Also, I usually lag screw the beams together. But if it makes you sleep better at night. A little 20' x 16' addition doesn't really need a beam that large. This is not a complicated engineering feat, but rather framing 101.ĥ.25x16" beam is very much overkill for the application. My suggestion to use the LVLs was based on the manufacturers specs, which is exactly what the engineer is going to use. ![]() Indeed, most places will require a stamped set of engineered documents for the roof anyway. What I am suggesting is that the OP is asking for advice on something that is very simple and typical of residential roof construction. Well I don't mean any disrespect for the rest of the pros around here at all. You'll also need a layer of 1/2" ply between the center two in order to fit the 3.5" thick beam you've just created. If you don't know what that is, picture four 2圆 studs nailed together with the center two being 12" shorter than the outer two. If the roof length increases to greater than 16' but still less than 20', then you'll need two 14" LVL beams instead.Ĭreate a beam pocket in a gable end, with a continuous run to a footer. In this case you'll be ok with two 11.875" LVL beams ganged together for the ridge beam. I'll assume a modest 6:12 pitch and being in northern Illinois I'm assuming a live load of 40#. Since you are suggesting using regular dimensional lumber I am going to assume that the length of the room is less than 16' and that the span width is your stated 20'. My #2 suggestion would be to use engineered lumber. Personally I hate it when I ask for advice on a certain method and all I get is alternate method advice, but just in case you were open to the easier alternatives. But the interior pitch won't match the exterior pitch. They will build them to code and they will be a much easier and faster install. So I will tell you what I would suggest as I have just a few extra moments here.Ĭonsider just using scissor trusses manufactured locally. That said, they will probably just refer you to the codes that won't tell you the particulars of what you are asking. First a disclaimer: you should always check with the building department. ![]()
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